Kategoriler: Style

Dries Van Noten Retires From Fashion With Final Paris Runway Show


“I tried to make things people would cherish,” Dries Van Noten said on Saturday evening, during a cocktail party and dinner preceding his final runway show. Mr. Van Noten held his first show in Paris back in 1991; now, at 66, he is stepping away from his namesake brand. His retirement was a shock to many in a business in which careers tend to be abnormally truncated or else to exceed their expiration date.

The decision to retire was not taken lightly, Mr. Van Noten said. Whose is? And it was destined to be a disappointment to fans of this gentle Belgian’s presence on the scene. And they are many. Why? There was his evolved craftsmanship. There was his singular gift as a colorist. There was his ability to skew pattern and tweak silhouette without compromising wearability. Perhaps alone among the designers of the vaunted Antwerp Six group he belonged to, Mr. Van Noten produced, for 150 collections, commercially accessible, cherishable clothes.

A pre-show dinner party of a kind the French term a cocktail dînatoire was held in a warehouse on the outskirts of Paris. Fans from throughout the decades — among them, the designers Pierpaolo Piccioli, Thom Browne, Glenn Martens, Stephen Jones, Harris Reed and Diane von Furstenberg — floated about a vast space as waiters poured Champagne in abundance and circulated with trays bearing tiny bowls of beet soup, white asparagus with poached egg, foie gras and shrimp on skewers.

YAZI ARASI REKLAM ALANI

As a waiter passed with a flight of beef tartare snacks, Edward Buchanan, the designer and Milan fashion director of Perfect Magazine, waved them away. Raw beef at parties is iffy, he said.

Asked about his relationship to Mr. Van Noten’s designs, Mr. Buchanan told a story. “Two years ago in L.A., all my things were stolen,” he said. For months after the theft, he spent every spare hour obsessively combing the internet for replacements — not of his personal mementos but of his lost Van Notens.

“I didn’t really care about anything else,” he said.

It was like that with Van Noten’s designs. You coveted them when you saw them and hoped to keep them for life.

So it felt keenly bittersweet that Mr. Van Noten’s valedictory collection, shown on a long runway poetically covered with shreds of silver leaf so light they fluttered through the air, encompassed many keystones of his graceful, unostentatious mastery. The show opened with an austere lightweight overcoat that suggested something dour was to follow, an impression quickly offset by a parade of transparent peekaboo trousers, dusters, overshirts and double-breasted suits buttoned low and slouchy in the manner of film noir gangsters.

Hawaiian Punch florals rendered in cool monochrome and paired with snakeskin patterns were followed by iridescent metallic trousers and tunics jackets in a gold-and-silver fabric that moved like molten metal. The effect was both minimalist and wizardly.

If there were no other single reason to lament Mr. Van Noten’s retreat from fashion, there is his color sense. Could another designer layer a taupe field jacket with bellows pockets on the breast and sleeves over a pair of salmon-colored fuzzy shorts with unfinished hems and a rosy-beige shirt whose color, in more benighted times, Crayola crayons marketed as Flesh?

Let’s hope so. Until that time, the smart money is on a serious uptick in online sales of vintage Dries Van Noten. As Mr. Buchanan realized when his bleach-dipped denim jacket was swiped, Joni Mitchell was 100 percent correct about not knowing what you’ve got till it’s gone.


Source: nytimes.com

editor

Paylaş
Tarafından Yayınlandı
editor

Yakın Zamanda Gönderilenler

Sahipsiz hayvanlara yönelik kanun teklifi komisyonda kabul edildi

Sahipsiz hayvanlara yönelik düzenlemeler içeren Hayvanları Koruma Kanunu'nda Değişiklik Yapılmasına Dair Kanun Teklifi, TBMM Tarım,…

1 saat ago

Cumhurbaşkanı Erdoğan’dan Kıbrıs’ta Yunan Bakana tepki: Akla ziyan açıklama yaptı

Cumhurbaşkanı Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, Kıbrıs Barış Harekatı'nın 50. yıl dönümünde, 20 Temmuz Barış ve Özgürlük…

1 saat ago

Lugano’yu deplasmanda yenen Fenerbahçe avantajı kaptı

Fenerbahçe, UEFA Şampiyonlar Ligi 2. eleme turu ilk maçında Lugano'yu 4-3 mağlup ederek rövanş öncesinde…

1 saat ago

Faiz yüzde 50’de sabit kaldı

TCMB, politika faizi olan bir hafta vadeli repo ihale faiz oranını değiştirmeyerek yüzde 50'de tuttu.…

1 saat ago

Güneşin faydaları nelerdir, nasıl yararlanılır?

Güneşin faydalarından en iyi şekilde yararlanmak için dengeli bir yaklaşım benimsemek önemlidir. Güneşe aşırı maruz…

2 saat ago

Etiyopya’daki toprak kaymasında ölü sayısı 229’a yükseldi

Etiyopya'nın güneyinde meydana gelen toprak kaymasında yaşamını yitirenlerin sayısı 229'a yükseldi. AA & Ensonhaber Doğu…

2 saat ago

This website uses cookies.